Fitting and
Proper
by Sharon Ann
Burnston
122
pages, 9" X 12", $32.95
ISBN
1-880655-10-1
Reviewed by Beth Gilgun
I have been waiting to see this book for almost a year. Thus it was
with great anticipation that I opened the package containing my copy. The wait was worth
it, and my anticipation was well-rewarded. Sharon Burnston has put together a careful
study of clothing and needlework in the Collection of the Chester County (Pennsylvania)
Historical Society and in the process provided the rest of us with a valuable resource.
Sharon's scholarship is consistently high and it is evident that careful thought went into
every aspect of this book.
The best way to study clothing is to look at extant garments, and those
garments are even more valuable to the scholar when we know who owned and wore them
originally. Many of the items in this book have known provenances, which makes them
particularly interesting and valuable. Yet, while handling the extant garment may be good
for these of us who study clothing, it is not very good for the garment. Even those in
good shape are still 200 years old, and thus, good shape may still mean somewhat fragile.
So one person doing a careful study with detailed photographs and measured drawings is
kinder to the garments and still allows many people to study the same piece of clothing.
Fitting and Proper contains detailed studies of 41 items and a
very complete appendix surveying clothing in Chester County estate inventories. I am sure
that I will keep finding new information every time I refer to this. Also detailed are the
descriptions of the garments and the cloth from which they are made. Thread counts, type
of fabric, conditions of the item and its provenance are provided. Along with measured
drawings on graphs, information is also included on how the item was constructed. Number
of stitches per inch, type of thread, size and type of seams are all included, so that the
reader could reproduce the garment, if she or he desired. More importantly, the reader can
use this information in conjunction with studies of other garments to get an understanding
of 18th century construction techniques.
Because the collection contains clothing for men, women and children,
this book is somewhat unique. Most books of this sort concentrate on only men, or women or
children. Another bonus to me is that needlework items are included, once again with
complete information on how they were made.
Fitting and Proper has measured drawings of three 18th century
women's gowns. Two have edge-to-edge closures of the bodices and en foureau
backs. These two gowns are typical of day dresses, and in fact are similar to one that I
have just studied with a Northfield, Massachusetts, provenance. Reproducing either one in
linen or lightweight wool for use when reenacting would be a good addition to any woman's
wardrobe. The third gown is a silk, saque-back that is said to have been worn to George
Washington's inaugural ball in 1789.
For less dressy occasions, there are two short gowns, two petticoats
and an apron. One of these shortgowns has previously appeared in a measured diagram, but
in a journal that is not readily available to most people. The other is a nice example of
a plain, easily made garment with an easy fit. Either of these shortgowns would be easy to
make. Even thought the original owners are unknown they descended in a Quaker family and
are likely to have been owned by a member of this family. The petticoats include a white
linen underpetticoat and a beautifully executed quilted silk. Either of these would be fun
to reproduce and wear. The checked apron is a typical apron without a pinner, the type
that would be worn for everyday use.
The men's and boy's breeches are wonderful examples. The men's breeches
have a narrow fall and belonged to a gentleman who lived from 1745 to 1832. He married in
1774, and it is possible that these were his wedding breeches. The boy's breeches have a
fly front, which makes them particularly interesting because there are few fly-front
breeches in other books on clothing. Since children's clothing was made like that of their
parents, men's fly-front breeches could be patterned from these. And for those of you with
small boys, these would be a good pattern to follow.
Unfortunately for my interests, the man's coat and greatcoat date from
the very end of the 18th century. However, they are good examples of their period and
would be very useful for people interested in the last years of the century. The man's
shirt is quite beautiful, made of very fine linen, with even finer ruffles. Other than the
collar, which makes this shirt date to the end of the 18th century, this is a classic 18th
century shirt.
I mentioned that this book contains several items of needlework. These
include some worked pockets, two Irish stitch wallets, and a finished and unfinished
pinball. These would make great projects to work on at events. Also included is a pair of
man's white cotton stockings, with clocking worked into the ankle on both sides of the
stocking. These stockings are said to have been worn by Joseph Gest for his wedding in
1765 and are typical of stockings worn by both men and women throughout the 18th century.
This book epitomizes the phrase "Good things come in small
packages." It is not a thick tome but is certainly worth its weight in gold for the
information included. Printed on glossy paper, the diagrams are clear and usable, and the
photographs clear and detailed. If you are interested in 18th century clothing, this book
is a valuable addition to your library and will soon be one of the first books you take
off the shelf. As I said at the beginning, I waited anxiously to see this book, and it was
definitely worth the wait. I am sure that you will feel the same way.