Gather 'Round the Stove
Antler Horn « Authentic Horn « Blanket Harness « Boning Alternatives
Bottle Gourd « Buckets & Wash Tubs « Canteen Corks « Carving a Pawnee Pipe
Dyeing Buckskins « Fishing Kit Bobber « Hammer Stall « Headgear « Horn Cup
Ice Creepers « Long Gun Sling « Rotisserie « Salt « Small Primitive Bottles
Soapstone Pipes « Temporary Sling « Waterproofing Moccasins
Waterproofing With Acrylic Paint
When making antler tip powder horn measures, I don't try to get each measure exact. It's hard enough just drilling out those critters. I bore out the antler until I figure it won't take anymore, then I group them into a "general" classification for sale on the trade blanket. Customers are advised to do as the old timers did. Fill the measure with wax to bring a 50-60 grain measure to desired 45 grain capacity. Flatlanders remember to put wax in after pouring out the initial powder load!
-- J.Goldbach, Worthington, OH, M/J 94.
For
those of you who are concerned with authenticity, the idea for this horn is based on an
original flat horn in my personal collection. While it is impossible to date it
with any accuracy, it definitely is pre1840. It's also one of the handiest
ways to carry a priming horn that I have ever come across.
First make a flat priming horn. I made mine using the methods
of Mark Odle in The Book of Buckskinning
VI.
Next drill a 1/4-inch hole through the neck of the horn, as shown. Cut the
hollow, thin handle from a glue brush and glue it in the hole.
Use a drop of cold browning to the raw cut to do away with the bright tin edge.
Also carefully measure the tube that you are using before drilling to insure a
tight fit. Add a rawhide thong to go around your neck, and your horn is
finished. I wear mine just below
the
middle of my chest, so that I don't have to dig through my bag for
each shot.
It's a great, handy way to carry a priming horn. A final word of caution:
Always
replace the horn plug and be careful of sparks. A very nasty accident could
result if you don't.
--Thomas L. Smith,
Dalton, Georgia M/A 91.
I am sorry, Mr. Baker, your one blanket does not keep these old bones warm enough; three or four are required for winter and snowshoe treks (and sometimes I wish I had more). I've made a harness that I can attach to my bedroll (canvas cover with up to four heavy wool blankets), converting it into a knapsack (backpack) with a removable haversack. I roll up the bedroll along with a small diamond fly then attach the harness and haversack. I used new leather, but old belts would also work.
--Dan Hendricks Broomfield, CO. M/A 92.
When preparing a bottle gourd for water storage, I use an old, flat curtain rod for cleaning out seeds and pulp once it's dried thoroughly. It scrapes things loose real well. Then, when pouring in a mixture of beeswax and paraffin, I also warm the gourd to about 100 to 120 degrees (F). This allows wax to flow and not gob up. I run the wax in and out three or four times for a good coating. I have water gourds that have lasted three or four years with regular use. Water gourds are a handy and very authentic piece of camp gear.
--J. Goldbach Worthington, OH, M/J 94.
In
studying the work of fur trade era artists, I've come across several items
of clothing and gear not yet taken up by today's reenactors. The two styles of
headgear shown here are good alternatives to the felt hat and fur cap. Probably
inspired by capote hoods, this type of headgear has been pictured on both
Indians and whites. The peaked hood like style was painted as being worn by an
Indian by Karl Bodmer.
Bodmer
traveled amongst and painted Indians along the Missouri River from 1832-1834.
The "hood" appeared to have the rest of the pelt hanging down the
Indian's back and a tie string under the chin. A strip of the hide was also sewn
to the peak of the hood, again much like the more elaborate capotes. The second
sketch shows another hood like style, one often painted by Alfred Jacob Miller,
which dates it to circa 1837. For as often as Miller portrayed them, they had to
have been in fair usage. Wolf ears are oftentimes clearly shown, and the
material used is undoubtedly blanket. Feathers, beads and a tie string also seem
to have been fairly common on them.
--Ronald Kil Albuquerque, NM, N/D 94.
There is something to be said for lazing on a bank on a nice, sunny day and watching your bobber drift around. That is why my primitive fishing kit includes a bobber that also serves as a stopper. My fishing kit is made from a piece of sycamore branch about 1-1/2" in diameter and 3" long. It has been hollowed out to hold hooks, line and sinkers. The bobber/stopper is a cork with a 1/4" hole drilled through the center. A wood plug, stained red, fits into the hole and extends about 1/2" above the top. To attach the bobber to your line, just slip a loop through the hole from the bottom, bring it out the top and back over the bottom where it fits into a slit. Pull the line snug, insert the red plug and hold it in place on your line. Now just cast out, lay back and ZZZZZZ!
-John M. Rader, Indianapolis, IN N/ D 91.
Insulin bottles are useful to buckskinners to carry salt, pepper and medicine (also a shot of snake bit medicine). Just obtain an empty bottle from anyone who uses insulin, remove the rubber stopper and label and wash well. Get a small cork or carve a wooden plug to seal the bottle.
--Mike La Duke, Mauckport, IN JA917.
A slip sling that requires no physical attachment is a perfect set up for the muzzleloader. All you need is canvas webbing and two strips of leather. Cut the first leather strip to the shape and size shown. The size noted is for a 13/16" barrel with ramrod. You will need to adjust the length to accommodate your gun. Sew this to one end of the canvas. Create the loop and slip it over the barrel. From here you can measure the needed length of canvas webbing by throwing the rifle over your shoulder. Repeat the attachment on the other end. Be sure to double check the size of leather needed to work with your long gun. Do not use deer leather. It will stretch too much and cannot take the abuse cowhide can.
-Mike Harmon, Ankey, IA. N/D 90.
To
make a horn cup, select the size horn to suit your need. A horn 3-1/2 inches
in diameter and five inches high will hold twelve to fourteen ounces.
Use a pencil to lay out lines to cut on. I use a coping saw
for cutting across the horn and a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut out
the handle. A band saw would work also.
Cut a wood plug for the bottom and shape to almost fit.
The best way I found to soften horn is to use an electric
heat gun. Don't get the horn too hot, since blistering or burning will occur.
Try using a piece of scrap horn to practice on.
Heat
the base of the horn about two minutes, moving the gun around the bottom. The
base of the horn will become pliable, then tap the base plug in. Use brass tacks
in pre-drilled holes in the horn to hold the plug in.
Bend the handle down using the same method. Heat the handle
and gently bend into shape. At the bottom of the handle, you can use a piece of deer
antler with a wood screw to secure the handle to the base plug.
To
line the inside of the cup, I use a two part liquid polymer compound found at
craft stores and some hardware stores. It cures to a hard, clear plastic coating
that is heat and alcohol resistant. I use my cup for hot coffee or cold drinks
with no harm to the inside finish.
--John C. Barlow Oberlin, OH J/F 94.
A number of years ago, when I was just getting into reenacting, a wonderful gentleman by the name of Don Morris gave me this tip. Sadly, Don has since lost his battle with cancer, but his knowledge lives on. Like “Peskunck” Larrabee, I had trouble with my hammer stall loosening up and falling off. Don showed me a way to make a stall that I have had on my “Bess” for seven years now. It fits just as tightly now as when I first put it on, and, yes, I leave it on all of the time when I’m at home too.
See the accompanying drawing for the design. You will want to use a flexible type of leather. I made mine out of a scrap piece of oil tan or blacksmith’s leather. By making it out of only one piece of leather, it stretches back and forth and always stays snug on my frizzen, even when wet.
--Ted Rensland, Edmore, MI M/J 04.
An alternative to the steel boning that bends or rattan boning that cracks and breaks can be found at the nearest home improvement center such as Lowe's, Menard's or Home Depot. Known as "heating duct connectors,” they are an oversized version of "zip-ties" used to hold wiring together. These large zip-ties are a heavy polyethylene plastic about a 1/4-inch in width and come in either 24-inch or 34-inch lengths. They are packaged ten to a pack for about $5.00, and three packs are usually enough for a set of stays in the 34-inch length.
The strips are easily cut to length using either sheet-metal snips or diagonal wire cutters. Sand the ends to allow them to slide easily into the casings and to prevent abrasion to the edging, thus extending the life of the garment. (A Dremel-type tool with a sanding disc is perfect for this.)
--Ted Rensland, Edmore, MI S/O 03.
A while back I made a couple of wooden buckets and a couple of wash tubs to take to events. I decided to make the hoops out of metal rather than wood withes, as they are a bit easier to make. The metal strapping used to secure goods to shipping pallets is ideal for this and can be found in dumpsters at almost any factory receiving door. (Be sure to ask permission first.)
To make the hoops fit well, if the bucket or tub has slanted sides, you need to form the strap into an arc. This is done by tapping with a ball-peen hammer along one side of the strap, thereby elongating it in relation to the other side. Placing the strap a bit below its final position, mark and cut, leaving about a 3/4-inch overlap. Drill a couple of holes through the overlapped ends and rivet with a couple of solid rivets, sometimes known as heating duct rivets. (Not the "pop-rivet" kind.) Place the hoop on your project and drive down tightly with a blunt drift, tapping lightly and going around and around a number of times.
When driven down as far as the hoop will go, drill three to four small holes in the strap and secure with some small carpet tacks into the wood to prevent the hoop from working loose. The originals didn't need this step as they were wet and the wood was swollen all of the time, but this will help keep the hoops in place during the off season or during times of disuse.
--Ted Rensland, Edmore, MI S/O 03.
Have you ever been hunting and have a turkey or deer down and couldn’t figure out what to do with that fine long gun? A sling would be nice, but you do not want a sling on your fine rifle, nor the swivels that go with a sling.
I made a temporary sling that attaches easily to a longrifle or fowler, and when not in use takes up little space in my rifle bag or haversack. I used some hemp strapping, but leather, a hand-woven strap or cotton webbing would also work fine.
I cut two pieces of leather about four inches long and the same width as my strap. I punched two holes in the center, and placed a leather wang about 10 inches long through the holes (a leather shoestring would also work.) I then bent the leather in half and sewed it to the end of the strap. This is easily tied to the forearm, wrist or trigger guard. Most modern-made long guns have a very high sight for target shooting and the sights on my rifle are tall enough that I can sight the rifle over the leather wang tied to the barrel.
--Daniel R Hendricks, Broomfield, CO S/O 03.
For anyone in the Upper Great Lakes region who does reenacting or trekking in the winters of Michigan, a pair of ice creepers used with your winter moccasins can mean the difference between a miserable day, one possibly marked with a nasty fall and an enjoyable one walking around and enjoying the winter beauty.
A pair of authentic, period-correct ice creepers are a joy to have and easy to make. All you need are a few hand tools, an electric drill and about a half hour of time. The materials that you need are two pieces of 60-inch long by 1/2 inch wide thin leather, woven hemp or heavy thong for the ties. You could even finger weave some ties if so inclined. The creepers are made from 1-1/2 inch wide 1/8-inch-thick steel stock obtainable from most hardware stores.
First, measure the width of your shoe or moccasin at the point directly below the instep at the arch. Mine measured 4-3/4 inches. To this add 1-1/2 inches on each end for the tabs and spikes. (See Drawing)
Drill a 1/2-inch diameter hole centered 1/2 inch in from each end for the ties. Be sure to clamp the steel down securely to prevent it from spinning if the bit catches to prevent injury. After boring the hole, chamfer the edges of the hole with a counter sink or file to prevent abrasion on the ties.
Next, with a hacksaw, cut the spikes as shown in the drawing. Clamping the creeper in a vise, bend the tabs upward and the spikes downward opposite one another. At this point, a propane torch is helpful but not necessary. Dress the edges with a file to get rid of jagged edges, and you're finished. You may wish to dress the corners of the tabs, rounding them off, but this is strictly a matter of choice.
In wearing the creepers, run the tie through the two holes on either side. Place the shoe into the creeps with the tie going over the foot. Grasping the two ends of the tie, cross them up over the instep of the foot and around to the back of the ankle. Crossing again in the back, bring them around to the front of the lower leg/ankle, and tie off. These will stay on all day with little or no adjusting.
--Ted Rensland, Edmore, MI M/J 03.
To keep cork on canteens from breaking, drill a hole in the cork and insert a threaded eyebolt. Place a washer and a nut on the inner end of the eyebolt. Then when you pull on the cork all of the pressure is on the bottom of the cork, thus reducing the odds of breaking the cork.
--Daniel R. Hendricks, Broomfield, CO S/O 01.
WATERPROOFING WITH ACRYLIC PAINT
I've used acrylic paint to "waterproof" a new invented knapsack, a haversack, and a pair of half gaiters. Large discount stores carry inexpensive two ounce and larger containers in a wide variety of colors. Military knapsacks were usually painted in light blue, red or Spanish brown (militia items were more artistic). I paint my goods with two coats, and they've held up quite well on treks. Acrylic paint cleans up easily with just soap and water.
--Michael H. Maggelet, Great Falls, MT J/F 01.
Most well-versed reenactors and living historians know that buckskins should be a nice buck tan to a dark smoked color, but I often see newcomers with orange dyed outfits. You can remove the coloration with a packet of Rit Dye Color Remover. Set the washer on its hottest setting and fill to capacity. Empty the packet into the washer and let your ‘skins sit for about half an hour. Let the washer finish its cycle without adding any detergent. After the spin cycle, remove your ‘skins and let them air dry outdoors in a breeze or with the help of a fan. I used this process on some grade two chocolate-colored hides, and they turned out to a nice buck tan color.
--Michael H. Maggelet, Great Falls, MT J/F 00.
Though moccasins can never be rendered truly waterproof. I found, after messing with different potions and concoctions, that rendered deer tallow does a very good job. It’s a hardish tallow and doesn’t wash off in wet, slushy snow or anything.
After wearing for quite a few days, the mocs still feel greasy on the outside. Also they don’t feel as “wet” with this application, as they do with softer greases.
A friend told me, “Beaver grease or rat grease won’t disappoint you either.” (I hope he meant muskrat!) I haven’t tried these yet.
The best way to apply deer tallow is to heat it up good and hot, warm moccasins well, and paint it on with a paint brush.
--Richard Hare, Alberta, Canada M/A 99.
Recently while carving my Pawnee style pipe of black steatite, I ran into a dilemma. I didn’t have a drill bit that was long enough to reach the elbow of the pipe. I took a steel welding rod and removed the flux. Then I flattened out one end and grounded it to a chisel point. It’s simple and it worked. Remember to tap out the excess debris periodically as you drill.
--Chris Bezold, Sinclair, WY S/O 98.
I am an officer in the re-created British Northern Indian Department and, as was the case of my predecessors in the 18th century, lead mixed parties of regulars, loyalists and Indians on scouting treks in the Adirondacks. Many of us carry Algonkian-style soapstone pipes that have six- to eight-inch reed stems. Similar pipes were made by the Colonists but with redware bowls. Last summer we discovered a secondary use for the reed stems of our pipes as fire-blowers. I love the idea of making kit do double duty and the pipe stems work ten times better than mouth-blowing or waving your hat. Their chief advantage lays in being able to direct a strong blast of air at the particular point of the fire that needs the encouragement. Since then I’ve combined my fire kit with my smoking kit and keep it handy in my haversack.
--Fil Walker, Alliston, Ontario J/A 97.
If you have been looking for a good form of 18th century-style salt to put in your salt horn or season your meals at the encampments or for anyone who does authentic period portrayal, try Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt. It is pure unadulterated sodium chloride salt that is made by rapid evaporation in giant kettles very much like the way our ancestors made salt--by kettle-cooking water from salt springs and scrapping it off the sides of the pot for their use. It is a flake type salt not the granular crystal used in modern kitchens. In the East it is available in most large supermarkets and small ethnic food stores.
--Jim W. Filipski, Throop, PA M/A 97.
Although only participating in living history events for only a year and a half, my good wife and I have found a lot of enjoyment in demonstrating different cooking methods of 18th century foods. One of the techniques that has garnered a great amount of interest from rope-line visitors and fellow reenactors alike is the rotisserie method of roasting meat using nothing more than a length of cord to suspend the meat from a frame of some sort situated next to, but not over, the fire pit.
The framework can range from a regular metal crane at an encampment to just a “dangle stick” when on a trek in the woods. For the cord I use the heaviest butcher twine I can get. (My local meat market sold enough to me for 50 cents to last for more than a year.)
The meat is suspended over a shallow drip pan (to catch the basting juices) within 12 to 18 inches of the fire, depending on the fire size. Unlike other roasting methods, the fire doesn’t have to burn down to coals before using and, in fact, actually does a better job with open flame alongside the meat. To roast a leg of venison, just run the cord through a cut made between the leg bone and the large tendon.
On fowl such as chicken, duck or passenger pigeon (cornish hens), tie the end of the cord in the middle of a small (1/2-inch diameter by two inches long) stick. Run the stick though the back end of the bird’s cavity and out through the neck opening and T it across the shoulders. Take a half hitch around the legs with the part of the cord coming out of the rear and going to the suspension device. This helps keep the bird vertical. When suspended, simply twist the twine a number of times and let go. The twine will unwind and rewind back the other way and will continue to do so for four or five minutes until it slows to a stop. Then the whole process is repeated. (The higher the frame from the ground and the longer the twine, the more time you will have to rewind.)
--T. W. Rensland, Grand Rapids, MI M/A 97.
@ 2005 ScurlockPublishing Co., Inc. All rights reserved.
