Gather 'Round the Stove
IF YOU CAN'T DRILL IT, PUNCH IT
Working with stainless steel knife blades is a popular means of acquiring an
individualized knife for buckskinning. A small industry now exists within the buckskinning
trade to supply such blades. I purchases two small "Patch-knife" blades from
Americana, Ltd. The blades are excellent, consisting of laminated layers of steel which
provide a hard, stain-resistant finish while permitting a very good cutting edge. However,
when I attempted to drill the tangs my carbon-steel bits could not cut the metal. I like
to pin my antler handles to the blade, using a piece of brazing rod along with epoxy glue
to seal the handle permanently to the tang. I thought I was stumped until I recalled
watching a blacksmith punch holes in 1/4" steel heated red-hot. I decided to apply
the technique, and it worked.
The main problem with heating the tang is that the heat will
spread to the blade unless precautions are taken. When the blade heats, the
finish discolors, and the cutting edge can be softened if the blade is allowed
to get hot enough. To prevent these problems, hold the blade at the point where
the tang and blade meet with a set of vise-grips. The metal in the vise-grips
will draw the heat away from the blade and prevent discoloring and overheating
while you heat the tang to a cherry red color. I like to clamp the blade in the
bare jaws of my bench vise as this frees both of my hands to control the drill
and torch. I used a Propane torch to heat the tang, then I drilled the required
hole. With the metal tang heated, the drill cuts the hole as quickly as if it
was drilling soft pine wood instead. After drilling the hole, I quenched the
tang in water to cool it and prevent discoloration and softening of the blade.
Once the blade is cool, insert the tang into the antler, pin it with a length
brazing rod and apply the epoxy. Clip the rod close to the side of the antler
after the epoxy dries, then hammer the rod ends flush with a ball peen and
polish to desired finish.
--Paul Valladingham, Urbana, Illinois. J/F 90
If
you are a small game hunter like me, you live to field dress your game. On a successful
day, your knife can dull quickly. I like to carry a small steel to keep the blade sharp at
all times.
Using a quick sharpening tool, you can make two pocket steels as
shown. Remove the steel from the plastic housing and put in a handle of your choice.
--Mike Harmon, Ankeny, Iowa. M/J 90
I have always had problems temporarily attaching wood to the side of a knife tang so that I could shape my knife handles. I recently tried putting a piece of double-sided carpet tape on the knife tang. After cutting it to shape, I then placed the piece of wood onto the tape and used two short pins (temporary rivets). I was able completely to shape the knife handles. I used a putty knife to remove the wooden handles from the knife tang. I then used a multi-purpose solvent to remove the residue of the tape.
--Dan Hendricks, Broomfield, CO M/J 05.
A great way to pack a knife, either for reenacting or everyday use, is a variation of the old Plains Indian tack sheaths. Cut your pattern so that a long tab extends down one-half or three-quarters of the way down. The sheath can then simply be tucked under the belt with the tab over the belt. The sheath can also be tucked inside the pants with the tab over or under the belt for an inside-the-waistband concealed carry. However, this is not a good horseback carry because it is not attached solidly to a belt. Also sewing the sheath flat makes for a flatter carry and snugger fit.
--Ron Kil, Alameda, NM M/A 98.
Not wanting to spend a lot for a suitable Colonial-era reproduction rifleman’s knife, I looked for an inexpensive but acceptable alternative. At a gun show recently I spied a box of Turkish Mauser bayonets. Looking at the straight, blood-grooved blade, I remembered seeing photographs of Colonial knives made from cut-down swords. For ten bucks I was willing to experiment.
I cut off the barrel lug and gullion and removed the grips. Next I sawed off the locking lug on the butt, leaving enough of the hilt to attach maple grips. After reshaping the guard and shaping the grips, I had a ten-inch bladed knife that looked like a cut-down old hunting sword. The nicked and stained old blade just made it look that much more authentic.
--David Schipani, Saco, ME S/O 97.
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